"They [the Scottish soliders] were recognized among the Irish Soldiers by the distinction of their arms and clothing, their habits and language, for their exterior dress was mottled cloaks of many colours (breacbhrait ioldathacha) with a fringe to their shins and calves, their belts over their loins outside their cloaks. Many of them had swords with hafts of horn, large and warlike, over their shoulders. It was necessary for the soldier to grip the very haft of his sword with both hands when he would strike a blow with it. Others of them had bows of carved wood strong for use, with well-seasoned strings of hemp, and arrows sharp-pointed whizzing in flight." (Quoted in McClintock, Old Highland Dress, p. 18: The Life of Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill transcribed from the book of Lughaid O'Cleirigh. Irish Texts Society's publications, vol. XLII. Part I. Page 73.)There isn't any credible documentation of a kilt any earlier than this, however. So, I repeat, if you're doing a Highland impression of a period earlier than the late 1500s, please wear it as a cloak, not belted. The plaid (unbelted) was also sometimes worn with trews, and can be seen in portraits worn wrapped over one shoulder and under the opposite arm. Note: The bottom part of the belted plaid should NOT cover the knees; when properly worn, it should hang just long enough to graze the back of the calf when the wearer is kneeling. Clan tartans are a relatively recent innovation, due to renewed interest in Scottish heritage in the early 1800s, when the laws against the wearing of kilts and tartans were lifted. People most likely wore a pattern of tartan common to the district they lived in (weavers had their favorite patterns in different areas), and could therefore be identified as being from that area if they travelled outside their district. Some very complex tartans are shown in the portraits of Scottish lords that date from the 1600s. Often the portraits show that the clothing was not all made up of the same tartan -- various pieces of clothing were woven with different 'setts' (tartan patterns), with an effect that looks to the modern eye rather like a bad golfing outfit. Here are instructions on wrapping the belted plaid:
'Variegated' and 'striped' garments. Plaids ('sagum') sometimes many coloured, but more generally of a dark colour matching the heather.8) D'Arfeville - probably 1547 - not published until 1581. [The Western Isles]
"Yellow war coat, which amongst them is the badge of the Chieftaines."10) Gordon of Straloch. 1594 (Date of period described).
Tartan plaid, fringed, with a belt over it. ('mottled cloaks of many colours')
One source of much misdocumentation is R. R. McIan's famous work, The Clans of the Scottish Highlands, published first in 1845. The book lists each clan's history, name derivation, tartan, arms, armorial insignia, badge, and war-cry. James Logan, an author of some renown and McIan's contemporary, provides the text. Although there is much useful information in the book, the pictures should not be taken for historical fact. Like his contemporaries, McIan and Logan believed the kilt to be of ancient origins, evolving from the animal skin loincloths that the "cavemen" must have worn. We know today that the kilt developed from the brat or mantle that the Gael wore around their shoulders, and not from any lower body garment.