Fire in Cairo -- Part Seven - the tweaking

As you know from following this blog, I'm making a hot weather outfit for Belvidere Victorian Days next month based on the idea that it is Cairo in 1888. Yesterday, I built the bodice. Today, I'm back to fussing with the hip drape some more.

I wasn't really happy with the saggy way the drape looked, so I decided to change the angle of the sewn pleats so that they pull taunt when fastened at center back. I also lined the drape with 3.5 oz linen to give it more body.

drapepleating.jpgForgetting to remove the zipper foot after I sewed the boning into the bodice {blush}, I pushed pleats under the presser foot using the stripes in the fabric as a guide. You may be able to make out the faint pencil line I marked to show me where I wanted the pleats to go. They are slightly on the bias, but not on the true bias as I had them earlier.

The effect produced is definitely closer to that in my inspiration picture. But it's still drooping too far down in front. So I pulled the front drape into the shape I want and pinned it in the back so it stays. I think I'll add a stay tape in back under the drape to hold it in the position shown. Otherwise I'd have to sew it to the underskirt, and I really don't want to do that.

So how am I doing?


Obviously the bodice skirts aren't going to be worn under the hip drape, but putting the skirts on over the bodice made it easier to see everything without obstruction. That and I was too lazy to take the bodice off the dress form. {smirk}

Oh, and I gathered the skirt to the waistband too.

Let's see... .what's left to do?  Obviously I have to make sleeves for the bodice.  And it gets a collar too.  And then it gets lined.  The skirt needs to be hemmed of course.  And I have to turn the waistband and make it neat (even though you won't ever see it).And I need to pleat the"tail" of my hip drape and put in those stay tapes.... and then buttons and buttonholes and it'll be finished!

Tomorrow:   Who knows!